How-To-Clean-Kitchen-Sink-Drain

A dirty sink drain can have a terrible smell and be unhealthy to use. If you want to maintain an evacuation without smell or smell, it is important to keep the sink clean. Cleaning a sink can be much more difficult than cleaning a sink because it is difficult to access with a traditional sponge. Fortunately, there are methods you can use to clean an ordinary sink drain or garbage disposal drain with all-natural ingredients like lemon and vinegar.

Use vinegar and baking soda


1. Remove the lid of your drain. Remove all covers on your drain. If you have a retractable drain plug, turn the cover counter-clockwise to remove it from the drain. Eliminate any excess food remaining from the dishes or hair accumulated near the top of the drain. Empty the sink before starting to clean the drain.

2. Rinse your drain with boiling water. Boil a pot of water in a kettle and pour it into the sewer before starting. This initial rinse will remove any smaller particles that have accumulated in the drain.

3. Pour 1/2 cup (110.40 g) of baking soda into the sewers. Measure 1/2 cup (110.40 g) of baking soda into a measuring cup. Slowly pour the powder into the sewers.

4. Pour 1/2 cup (118.29 ml) of white vinegar into the sewers. Pour the vinegar over the baking soda to create the chemical reaction that should clean and sanitize your drain. The baking soda will start to sparkle.

5. Leave the mixture in your drip for 10 minutes. Allow the mixture to sit for 10 minutes and the solution will go into the sewers to clear any obstructions or potential buildups.

6. Rinse your sink one last time with boiling water. Boil another pan of water and pour it into the sink to wash the remaining baking soda and vinegar into your sink. If you still smell vinegar in the sink, you can rinse it again with another pot of boiling water.

Cleaning a waste disposal drain


1. Cut a sliced ​​lemon. Cut a piece of lemon into individual slices small enough to fit in each section of a tray of ice cubes.

2. Place the slices in an ice cube tray and cover them with vinegar. Fill the ice bin with vinegar. Vinegar will help deodorize and disinfect your waste disposal. It will also clean the crevices in your garbage disposal sink.

3. Let the ice cubes harden. Leave the tray in the freezer overnight and let all ice cubes harden.

4. Place the ice cubes in your trash. Break up the ice cubes and throw them in your sewer.

5. Light your garbage until you break all the ice. Run cold water over the ice cubes and put the garbage in the trash. The blades should break the ice and the citrus fruits and vinegar should refresh the smell and clean your drain. Once you're done, run cold water to flush the drain.

  • Cold water hardens oils and grease so that the waste disposal blade can break them.


Keep your drain clean


1. Keep the fat, coffee grounds and hair out of your drain. A common reason why drains become clogged is that you put the wrong things to them. Avoid throwing food, hair, ground coffee or grease into the sewer of your sink, as it may obstruct you.

  • If you need to remove the oil, pick it up in a glass jar after cooking and throw it in the trash.


  • If you shave above the sink, you can cover the basin with paper towels or grocery bags to catch the hair before it falls into the sewer.


2. Rinse your sewer with boiling water after washing your dishes. If you thoroughly clean your sink or wash the dishes in your sink, then pour boiling water into the sewers. This can prevent odors from forming in your drain.

3. Use a sieve or drain cover. Using a drain cover will prevent things from going, which will allow you to clean it less often. If you do not have a drain cover, you can also use a mesh filter.

4. Regularly add bleach to the sewers. Once or twice a week, add bleach to the sewers and let it sit overnight. This will help prevent the build up of bacteria and odors inside your drain. If you do not like the smell of bleach, you can sprinkle with baking soda.


How-To-Remove-a-Kitchen-Sink

There are many types of kitchen sinks available in the market, but the most popular among them is made of stainless steel. Sinks are easy-to-install, easy-to-clean, and show less wear and tear than their counterparts. Still, with age, they occasionally need to be replaced. With a few tools in hand, it is possible to remove sinks with the least fuss and bother. If there is a cabinet underneath, you may want to remove its doors so you can make more room for ease of movement.

Follow these steps to learn how to remove your old kitchen sink.

Disconnecting Your Sink

1. Assess what type of sink you have. Kitchen sinks come in 2 basic designs: under-mounted, which are attached to the countertop from underneath, or drop-ins, which simply drop into the sink opening in a countertop. There are only slight differences in how you remove each kind of sink and they will be explained as you go through the steps.

2. Open the cabinet under the sink. Most of your work will be done here so clean out everything you can from this space. It will give you more room to move around and more space to place a bucket or your tools.

3. Put on your protective eyewear and gloves. The under sink area is small and confined, with lots of pipes and other hazards to your eyes. This job can also be messy and hard on your hands, so wearing gloves is a good idea. Remember that wearing personal protective equipment can seem like headache at times but it could save you from pain and injury in the long run.

4. Unplug your garbage disposal, if you have one. Electricity and water don't mix, so unplugging your disposal as soon as possible is a very good idea. You may even want to turn off the circuit that the disposal was plugged in to. Go to your home's fuse box and turn off the circuit breaker controlling the garbage disposal plug.

5. Turn off the water supply to the sink. You should have two separate valves located below the sink, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. In some cases, the hot water shut off knob will be red and the cold water shut off knob will be blue, but this is often not the case. Either way, turn both of the handles clockwise until they are all the way off. Double check that they are closed by turning on the water in the sink. A few drips at first are fine but the flow of water should be gone.

A. If you still have water coming out, you may need to consult a plumber to change out your shut off valves or you could do it yourself by following these

B. If are no water shut off valves under your sink, you will need to locate them further down your water pipes. Trace the water supply lines as far as you can, looking for valves where you could shut off the flow of water. If all else fails, there should be a main water shut off, either where water comes into your house or at the curb in a meter vault. 

6. Disconnect the water supply lines from the underside of the faucet. Water supply lines that connect to kitchen sinks are most often flexible plastic tubing that connect on both ends, at the sink and the water shut off valve, with metal nuts. Because the connection to the sink is found on the backside of the bottom of the sink, it may be a bit awkward to get to. 

Use an adjustable wrench, channel-locks, or an open-ended wrench to loosen the nut on the water line, whichever you can most easily get into the space. Hold the line in place with one hand while you loosen the nut with the other, so that when it becomes disconnected you can keep the line upright. A bit of water will still be in the line, so have a bucket handy to pour out the water trapped in the line. 

A. It's a good idea to spread towels across the bottom of the under-sink cabinet in order to catch small spills and reduce clean-up time later.

B. If the connection between your water lines and the sink are totally inaccessible, you can usually disconnect that lines at the water shut off valves. Remember, though, that you need to be gentle with the connections at these valves, as breaking them would send water streaming into your kitchen.

7. Disconnect the drain pipe from the sink. The drain pipe is connected at the bottom of your sink strainer with a slip nut or a coupling nut, that connects plastic drain piping to a metal sink strainer. First loosen the nut that attaches the strainer to the drain pipe with channel locks or an adjustable wrench. This is usually a plastic nut that can be loosened by hand, with a bit of strength of course. 

When this nut is loose don't pull the connection apart yet! You will also need to loosen the slip nut at the far side of the P-trap, which is a distinctive J- or U-shaped span of pipe in the drain line under the sink. Loosening this nut as well should allow you to take off the whole piece of piping between the strainer and the far side of the P-trap without damaging the piping. Remember to keep your bucket handy to capture spills.

A. If you have a sink that is mounted underneath the counter you may need to remove more drain piping in order to have space for the sink to come out. Remove your drain pipe further past the P-trap, giving space for the sink to be angled out. Whatever you take out can easily be replaced, as long as you leave at least an inch of pipe sticking out from the where it enters the under sink area.

B. A slip nut connection is designed for removal by hand but if you can't get it off by hand, you may want to wrap a rag around the nut and gently turn the nut with your channel locks, so that the slip nut doesn't get damaged.

8. Disconnect your garbage disposal, if you have one. First you will need to disconnect the drain pipe from your disposal. Unscrew the main connection between the garbage disposal and the drainpipe with a screwdriver.

A. You may also need to remove the drain line for the dishwasher, if you have one connected to the drain through your garbage disposal. This is a simple connection that should be easy to detach with either a screwdriver or wrench, depending on the fixture.

9. Remove your garbage disposal, if you have one. Some garbage disposals have a special Allen wrench that unlocks the assembly from its connection (this should come with your disposal when you buy it). Use one hand to turn the special wrench counterclockwise and keep your other hand under the disposal. 

Other types of garbage disposal units use snap rings to connect the disposal to the bottom of the sink. With this connection, one ring is attached to the bottom of the sink and one ring is attached to the disposal. Then the two rings have several screws that sandwich them together, which can simply be loosened and removed when detaching the disposal. Either way, the unit will come off quickly and you'll need to have a good grip on it so that you're ready to catch it.

A. In many cases, a sink with two bowls will have one bowl connected directly to the drain and one connected directly to a garbage disposal. If this is the case you will need to remove both connections.

Removing Your Sink

1. Cut through the caulking around your kitchen sink. Use a utility knife to carefully slice through the sealant along the edges of the fixture. Be sure not to cut into the countertop if you are going to continue using it.

2. Detach the sink from the countertop. If you have an under-mounted sink you will first need to have someone hold the sink up while you detach it, otherwise it could fall down onto you. For top-mounted sinks, this step can be done by yourself. Unscrew the metal clips that connect the sink to the countertop. Use a screwdriver to carefully take off the tiny clips. These screws may be difficult to access or be a bit rusty, so just take your time and be patient getting them off.

A. In order for your helper to hold up an under-mounted sink, remove the strainer from the sink, allowing them to hold onto the sink through the strainer hole. The strainer is connected to the sink with a locknut that is located below the sink. You will need to use large channel locks to loosen the locknut, turning the locknut clockwise until it is detached. Then simply tap the bottom of the strainer up and it should pop up and be easily removed from the sink.

3. Reach under the sink and gently push up on the sink to loosen it. If it doesn't move easily, move from side to side of the sink, pushing up until the fixture is loosened on all sides. If you are having trouble getting the sink to detach, and you are worried it may pull off pieced of your laminate countertop, have a helper gradually cut along the caulking as you push up on one side of the sink. This should allow you to remove the sink without accidentally pulling off some of your counter's finish.

4. Pull the sink out of the countertop. Stainless steel drop-in units are light enough to remove by yourself but older porcelain sinks can be heavy, so get someone to help you take that type out. Getting under-mounted sinks out is just a bit trickier. You will need to angle it out of the cupboard doors, being careful not to damage any cabinet surfaces or remaining piping.

5. Clean up surfaces and spills. Scrape off any old caulk or plumber's putty from the countertop with a paint scraper or a razor blade. Make sure the surface is clean before you begin installing a new kitchen sink. Also remember to sop up any water that may have come out of the sink during removal.



Kitchen-Sink-Buying-The-Ultimate-Guide

In the kitchen, one of the most important areas is the kitchen sink. Without a doubt, the kitchen sink handles a number of duties throughout the day whether you're washing your hands, preparing food or cleaning dishes. Understanding the decor and layout of your kitchen will help you understand the variety of options available to you. Rest assured, Ferguson offers a great selection of styles, sizes and finishes to make sure you're getting the most out of your kitchen sink.

Style of kitchen sinks

Kitchen sinks come in a number of basin configurations and installation types. It’s good to familiarize with this information before you start shopping.

Single Bowl

A single bowl sink has–as you may have guessed–just one basin. While many homeowners assume that having more bowls is better, this isn’t always the case.

Single basin sinks are usually available in compact sizes, making them ideal for situations where space is at a premium. And the basin of a single bowl sink is obviously going to be bigger than a double bowl sink designed to fit into the same space. A larger basin can make cleaning large dishes such as pots, oven trays, and slow cooker crocks much easier.

Cleaning a single bowl kitchen sink is going a be a bit faster due to a reduced number of corners and edges, and single bowl models are typically cheaper than equivalent two or three bowl varieties.

Double Bowl

The majority of modern kitchen sinks feature two bowls. In most cases, a double basin arrangement is ideal because of the flexibility it affords the user.

However, if you do a lot of cooking that involves larger dishes, you’ll need to make sure that the basins of your sink are big enough to comfortable wash them. There’s nothing more frustrating than struggling to clean a large stockpot at the end of a long day of cooking.

Double bowl sinks come in a wide array of configurations– two equally-sized bowls of the same depth, two equal bowls of different depths, unequal size bowls, etc. The right setup for you will depend on what you do in your kitchen, so take some time to consider your options before making a purchase.

Farmhouse (Apron Front)

The defining characteristic of a farmhouse sink is a large forward-facing section that replaces a portion of the counter.

Farmhouse kitchen sinks (also known as apron front sinks) are often the choice for people seeking a traditional or country-style design, although there are a number of stainless steel and composite models available that are designed with an eye towards the modern kitchen.

Farmhouse sinks are available in single and double basin varieties, although single bowl sinks are the most common.

While stylish, farm sinks tend to be on the pricey side and often require much more work to install than other sink types. In many cases, the counter must be designed specifically to accommodate the installation of a farmhouse sink.

Top Mount

This style of kitchen sink is designed to be dropped into a hole in your counter top. Top mount kitchen sinks almost always have a rim or lip that hold the sink in place and creates a finished look.

Top mount sinks–also known as drop-in sinks–are relatively easy and inexpensive to install. The lip of the sink reduces the need for an internal support system under the counter, making this type of sink a good choice for do-it-yourselfers or people on a budget.

However, top mount sinks don’t have the sleek, modern appearance of undermount sinks (see below) it’s easy for the area between the lip of the sink and the counter to accumulate scum and dirt.

Undermount

An undermount sink is mounted underneath the counter. There is no lip or rim, which means that the edge of counter drops off directly into the sink basin.

In addition to providing a clean, modern look, this feature makes for less work when cleaning because debris can be wiped straight into the sink. Unlike a top mount sink, undermount models don’t have grooves and crevices where food can accumulate.

While undermount kitchen sinks look great and are easier to keep clean, they have some distinct disadvantages over top mount sinks.

One of the biggest drawbacks is cost. Undermount models require more work to install because the sink must be glued to the underside of the counter. Stainless steel sinks are typically light enough to work with just glue, but heavier sinks (like cast iron or fireclay) need some sort of internal support system.

Most undermount sinks are not designed with space for faucets and attachments, so you’ll need to have holes cut into your counter top to install these components.

Sink Size and Configuration

Kitchen sinks today come in many different shapes and sizes, with all kinds of design features and accessories. While it may be easy (and fun!) to get caught up in all of these options, it's important to keep a few key questions in mind: how do you use your sink? Do you have a dishwashing machine, or are you the dishwasher? How often (if ever) do you use large pots and pans? A realistic assessment of what you'll be doing with your sink will help you best determine its size, configuration and material.

One of the most obvious options you'll decide on is the number and size of bowls in your sink. Here, it's important to think about your dishwashing habits and the types of things you'll be washing. Though it does ultimately come down to personal preference, many who wash their dishes by hand find the double-bowl design most convenient, as it allows them a space for soaking and washing, and another for rinsing or drying. Fans of garbage disposers might also prefer two bowls, one being smaller than the other. Triple-bowl sinks are also available, with one basin usually reserved for a disposer, another for food preparation. The size of each bowl for double or triple bowl sinks can vary, with some sinks having all bowls the same size and others with one large and one small, or two large and one small in the case of triple bowl sinks.

Unfortunately, double and triple bowl designs can be inconvenient for larger baking sheets, pots, and pans. Those who regularly use larger cookware might be better served by a large single-bowl sink, which provides ample room for large pieces to be comfortably cleaned within it. Those still wanting the convenience of a double-bowl sink could simply use a plastic dishpan while washing, effectively turning the one large basin into two when needed. Let's not forget about prep sinks either! A smaller sink placed elsewhere in the kitchen for food prep and quick clean-up could be invaluable, especially in larger kitchens where you may be working in more than one area.

When deciding upon the number and size of the bowls, remember to consider the overall size of the sink. In smaller kitchens especially, you'll need to consider how your sink fits into the counter and how the size of your sink will affect available counter space. Even the standard 22" x 33" kitchen sink size may be too big for smaller kitchens - and if you need a smaller sink, consider how that will affect bowl size. For example, your kitchen may be better served with a 28" single bowl rather than a 28" double bowl where nothing will fit because the bowls are too small. Regardless of kitchen size, a bigger sink will mean less counter space for food prep and small appliances, but if you have plenty of extra counter space, you do most of your food prep in the sink, or you choose a sink with a built-in prep area that might not be a concern for you.

Zero or small radius corners can make a big difference in the size of the sink as well. Coved (rounded) corners definitely make cleaning easier, but also make the bottom of the sink bowl smaller. If you like to fit the entire pot or cookie sheet into the sink when washing up, zero/small radius sinks may be the right answer for you. Be aware though that zero radius corners can be trickier to clean, so if that's a concern for you, a small radius sink where the edges are only slightly curved will make cleaning up easier.

Another size consideration is faucet and accessory placement. Smaller sinks may not have enough room across the back to fit certain faucet configurations (e.g., widespread, side spray) or accessories requiring extra faucet holes like a soap dispenser or a dishwasher air gap (which is a code requirement for many locations) - so if this extra room is necessary or you just really, really want a side spray faucet and a soap dispenser, make sure these considerations are part of your decision when choosing the size of your new sink.

Sink Materials

Consider the ways you use your sink and what it needs to withstand to work with your home. Will the material you choose require special attention? Is it easy to clean? Will it resist scratches from scouring pads or abrasive cleaners?

Stainless-steel

The most popular material for kitchen sinks is available in a variety of finishes and gauges. Steel gauge relates to its thickness. The higher the gauge, the thinner the steel. Regardless of gauge, stainless-steel sinks are comparatively lightweight, durable, and easy to clean. Sound-deadening coatings and pads are available to reduce the noise produced by sink use. Stainless-steel sinks are available in both drop-in and undermount options.

Copper

This durable metal sink won't succumb to rust or tarnish. Because of its natural properties, a patina will develop over time for a one-of-a-kind finish. And because copper is naturally antimicrobial, a copper sink resists bacteria and viruses. 

Granite 

This sink is created by spraying a granite and acrylic blend over a resin base. The result is a sink that’s scratch, stain and heat resistant to 537 degrees F. The protective barrier fights bacteria. Granite sinks are available as drop-in and undermount.

Cast Iron 

Made of solid cast iron, these heavy sinks are coated in porcelain enamel to create a finish that's virtually indestructible. Cast iron sinks offer long-term durability, sound-deadening qualities, many color options and heat resistant up to 1000 degrees F. They're easy to clean and come in drop-in and undermount configurations.

Fireclay 

This durable option is fired at a high heat to create a sink that resists chips and scratches. Fireclay sinks won’t fade or discolor and come in a variety of colors. The non-porous surface provides bacteria resistance.

Composite 

Composite sinks are formed of mixed materials, usually quartz / granite particles that are combined with acrylic or polyester resins to form a hard surface. Granite composite sinks are stain, scratch and chip resistant, have sound-deadening properties, dual-mount options and a few color choices.


Porcelain

This sink features lightweight steel coated in porcelain enamel for a smooth surface that is stain and scratch resistant. Porcelain sinks are easy to install with dual-mount options, heat resistant to 1000 degrees F and an insulated backing to reduce noise. 

Acrylic

An acrylic sink is made by molding acrylic material into the shape of a sink. The sink is then reinforced with a composite or fiberglass backing for support and sound dampening. These sinks are stain and impact resistant, are easy to clean and easy to install with top, undermount and dual-mount options. Acrylic sinks offer many color choices. If an acrylic sink scratches, the scratch may be polished out depending on its depth.

Other Considerations

Disposers  

Clearance and space is a consideration for disposer installation. If you’re updating your sink, it might be a good time to update your disposer as well. The depth of your sink bowl and the height of your base cabinet will determine whether or not disposer installation is a good choice.

Hot water dispensers  

A heating unit installed underneath the cabinet attaches to a spout to provide water up to 190 degrees for instant soups, sauces and hot drinks.

Drain position 

Most drains are located in the center, but some drains are located toward the back or rear corner of the sink for more usable surface area.



How-To-Unclog-A-Double-Kitchen-Sink

Everyone knows how to unclog a toilet but how many people know how to unclog a sink? The kitchen sink clogged from time to time. Whether it’s food waste, hair or something else, pipes eventually get clogged, resulting in a clogged sink 

These clogs lead to dirt collecting in the kitchen sink and nasty smells in the kitchen that won’t go away until the clog is fixed. In this article, we’ll explain how to unclog a Double kitchen sink .

Unclogging a double sink is very easy and all you need is 2 plungers. That’s right, next time you’re at the super center just pick up another plunger.

How To Unclog A Double Kitchen Sink with Two Plungers

To unclog it place one plunger on the side that has the food disposal, usually on the left side. This side will just be for making a tight seal that is easy to hold by yourself. You will not plunge this side. If you do not have a second plunger, you can try to block the other side but it works a hundred times easier if you do have a second plunger. Hold down the first plunger to make a tight seal and then place enough water in that side of the sink to barely cover the top of the plunger.

Now using your other hand, or with someone helping you, plunge the other side while maintaining the seal on the other plunger. You need to make sure that there is enough water in both sides to cover the top of the plungers.

Plunge it hard while maintaining the seal on the other side and within a few minutes you should have a totally clog free sink.

Keys to Unclogging a Double Sink with Two Plungers:

1. Use a plunger in each side of the sink.
2. One side of the sink will be just to create a seal against the drain hole, not to use as a plunger.
3. Place pressure on the first plunger over the drain hole to seal it and make sure water is covering the top of that plunger.
4. Place water in the other side, enough to cover the top of the second plunger.
5. Place second plunger over the drain hole and plunge that side of the sink while holding the first plunger tight against the opposite drain. 
6. If you struggle with using two plungers at once, get someone to hold the other plunger against the drain line for you.  



How-To-Install-Kitchen-Sink-Drain

Whether you're installing an entirely new kitchen sink or trying to fix some broken hardware, every kitchen sink needs a functioning drain. we’ll discuss the method for installing a kitchen sink drain.

Kitchen Sink Drain Basics

There aren't many reasons for changing out the drain pipes under a kitchen sink, but one of the most common is during a kitchen renovation when the sink is being replaced. The steps for installing the sink drain will depend on how different the new sink is from the old one, as well as what other components are being installed. For example, in older homes, the new sink may be a different depth than the old one, so some alteration of the branch drain pipe fitting entering the wall may be necessary.

Tools and Materials You Will Need

1. Kitchen drain trap kit
2. Tape measure
3. PVC tubing cutter or hacksaw
4. Plumber's putty
5. Channel-type pliers

Check the Drain Outlet Height

Deep-basin sinks are very handy and stylish, but they take up more room beneath the countertop and may require that you lower the drain fitting in the wall to match the lower height of the sink drain. Before you buy a new kitchen sink, it is a good idea to check the height of the trap arm on the old sink, from the floor or base of the cabinet.

Measure up to the center of the trap arm. If the height is more than 16 inches, then you may find that a new sink will pose difficulties in achieving the necessary downward slope (grade) for the trap arm entering the drain fitting in the wall. This is especially true if the new sink will have deeper basins, or if you are installing a garbage disposal for the first time. If the measurement is 12 to 13 inches from floor to trap arm, then you are unlikely to have problems. 

Knowing the height of the existing drain will prepare you for the possibility that you will need to lower the drain outlet in the wall as part of the drain hookup on a new sink. 

Lower the Drain, If Necessary

If you find that the existing drain opening is not low enough to accommodate the depth of the new sink, you (or a professional) will need to open the wall and lower the position of the sanitary tee connecting to the branch drain. This can be a somewhat complicated job that requires cutting away the back of the cabinet and the wall surface.

In our example, the new deeper sink left insufficient room for connecting a standard drain assembly to the drain outlet in the wall (left photo). So, the sanitary tee fitting has been lowered (right photo). Keep in mind that the drain height needs to leave enough room to remove the trap and clean it out when necessary.

If you need to lower the sanitary tee in the branch drain, it is a good idea to wait until the other parts of the drain are test-fitted before gluing and securing the fittings permanently. Leaving the fittings loose will allow you some room for adjustment. 

Before continuing to the next steps, install the new sink. In our example, we are installing a double-basin sink that will have a garbage disposal fitted to one basin.

Install the Garbage Disposal and Strainer

Next, install the garbage disposal and basket strainer. Install the garbage disposal onto the desired side of the sink first, since this takes up the most space. On the other basin, install a basket strainer. 

This is also a good time to install any other under-sink components such as a water filter or a  hot water dispenser.

Connect the Continuous Waste Pipe

The continuous waste pipe is used with double-basin sinks to connect the two drain openings together before they feed into the drain trap. On sinks where one basin holds a garbage disposal, the arm of the continuous waste pipe connects to the outlet on the disposal.

Hold the continuous waste pipe up to the two drain ends and take a measurement for cutting the horizontal arm to the proper length. If you have a garbage disposal, this measurement will be between the sink strainer and the drain outlet on the disposal; if you have no disposal, just measure between the centers of the two drain openings. Do not underestimate the length, because the fittings need to be tight—you can always trim down the pipe if it is cut too long. Assemble the pieces in this order:

1. Install the vertical tailpiece onto the sink strainer first. Secure it with a slip nut slipped over the tailpiece and threaded onto the bottom of the sink strainer. 

2. Slide a slip nut and beveled slip washer over the straight end of the continuous waste arm, then slide the end of the arm into the outlet on the drain tee fitting. Fit a slip nut and slip washer onto the garbage disposal waste outlet pipe, then fit the end of the outlet pipe down into the curved end of the continuous waste arm. 

3. Adjust the pieces as necessary, making sure the continuous waste arm has a slight downward pitch toward the tee fitting. 

4. Secure the slip nuts with channel-type pliers. These do not need to be over-tight; the plastic threads can be damaged if you use too much force. 

Connect the Drain Trap

The drain trap consists of a U-shaped trap bend and a J-shaped trap arm. The U-shaped piece will fit onto the bottom of the vertical tailpiece, while the trap arm extends into the sanitary tee fitting at the wall. 

1. Assemble the trap bend and trap arm together loosely with a slip nut. Slide a slip nut and beveled slip washer onto the straight end of the trap arm. 

2. Slide the trap bend up into the tee fitting on the sink drain, while sliding the trap arm into the sanitary tee fitting at the wall. 

3. Adjust as needed to create the most direct path from sink to the wall tee. Make sure trap arm has a slight downward angle toward the wall tee. ​Note: Take care to face the trap the correct way. It may be tempting to turn it the wrong way in order to fit it into a small space, but it doesn’t work properly this way and has a tendency to leak.

4. Tighten all slip nuts with channel-type pliers. Again, don't overtighten. 

5. If you have installed a new drain tee in the wall, now is the time to make sure all those joints are secure and permanent. 

6. Run water to check for leaks. Tighten up anything that leaks, and then fill up the sink and give it a good volume test. Do this for both sides of the sink to be sure everything is working properly.



How-To-Install-A-New-Kitchen-Sink

A new sink will improve the look and usability of your kitchen. Fortunately, installing a new sink isn’t a difficult project. Here’s a quick how-to.

Measure Your Existing Sink

Measuring your old sink will allow you to identify the location of drains and make the necessary adjustments during your installation. If your new sink has different dimensions or drain locations, you’ll likely need to make countertop adjustments or additions. It’s a good idea to hire a pro to alter your countertops, especially if you have sensitive materials like stainless, natural stone or solid surface.

Examine Your Hardware

Decide if you’re planning to replace your fixtures as well. If so, it’s best to tackle your hardware replacements during your new sink installation. If you’re adding new components like soap dispensers or hot water sinks, you may have to cut additional holes in your sink. Most sink models come with between one and four pre-drilled holes. You can avoid sink alterations by planning ahead and selecting a model that has the right amount of holes for your new fixtures and extra components.

Remove Your Old Sink

Removing your old sink will require several steps. Here’s a quick guide:

Turn Off Your Water: 

Begin by turning off the water supply to your old sink. Most hot and cold water supplies are below your sink. If you’re unable to find these valves, shut of your home’s water main. It’s also a good idea to snap a photo of your pipe and valve configuration before disconnecting your water lines. This will help you reconnect your water lines after your new sink installation.

Turn On Your Faucet: 

Turn on your sink faucet to relieve the existing water pressure and drain the main line.

Disconnect Your Supply Lines and Disposal: 

Use an adjustable wrench to remove your supply line connections. Have a bucket nearby to catch any drips. Next, turn off your disposal’s circuit and unplug it. Disconnect the P-trap and let it drain. Use the same bucket to catch drainage from your disposal. Remove your disposal motor according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Loosen Your Sink: 

Locate the clips that hold your sink from underneath. Use a screwdriver to turn the clips toward the sink bowl. Next, use a razor blade to cut the caulk around the top of your sink.

Remove the Sink: 

Push the sink from below to separate it from your countertops. If the sink doesn’t move, revisit the caulking with your razor and double check that all the clips are facing toward the sink’s bowl. Scrape away any grime or leftover buildup on your countertops with a putty knife. 

Install Your New Sink

Adding your new sink isn’t difficult. Here’s how:

Double Check the Fit: 

Place your sink over the hole to ensure it fits. Call a pro if your sink is under or oversized. Kitchen specialist​s are able to shim and adjust your countertops to fit your new sink.

Attach the Clips: 

Flip your new countertop over and attach the clips. Ensure they’re facing toward your sink’s bowl.

Attach the Strainer: 

Roll plumbers’ putty into a thin strip and apply it around the edges of your strainer and drain. Press your strainer into the drain putty first.

Add the Gaskets: 

Place your sink on its side, apply the rubber drain gaskets and thread your flange. Repeat these steps for any other drains that don’t have a disposal. Remove any putty pushed through the drain and into the sink bowl.

Install Your Sink: 

Screw on your disposal mounting bracket and apply a bead of silicone caulk around the underside of your sink. Lower your sink onto your countertops, making sure to position it squarely. Rotate the metal clips toward your sink bowl to secure it in place.  

Seal the Outside of Your Sink: 

Apply a bead of silicone caulk around the outside of your sink. Wipe away any excess with a wet rag.

Attach Your Components: 

Reattach your water supply lines and garbage disposal. Attach any additional fixtures, like soap dispensers or hot water faucets, as well. Call a pro if you’re unsure how to tackle this task. Fixture installation mistakes can result in leaks, malfunctions and reduced utility efficiency.

Reconnect Your P-trap: 

Screw your P-trap back into place and turn on your sink’s water and electrical lines.